From Albuquerque, we headed west into Arizona. It was my first time visiting the state, so I didn't know quite what to expect. Turns out "fascinating stuff" is what.
We pulled into Meteor Crater RV Park west of Winslow, eager to see all we could. For the next several days, I gazed out the window by my desk at the remains of a building on a private gravel road that was once part of Route 66. I longed to get up close and take photos, but the "keep out" signs did their job.
See the ruin? Hint: it's in the circle.
With help from Google, I found out we were only one highway exit east of Two Guns.
Two Guns Ruins and Graffiti
This fascinating Route 66 ghost town can be accessed by anyone.
Inviting, right?
Come on in.
Presumably trespassing is prohibited, as it's on private land, but there are no notices or gates. This is all that's left of the former caretaker's house.
Anybody home?
The prevalence of graffiti proved we weren't the first visitors.
Graffiti inside the old gas station
Outside the same building
Quite the mustachio
The setting was definitely borderline horror movie.
Cozy!
We saw this emblem a lot.
I see you too.
But sometimes, it was poignant.
Inclusive addition
Henry David Thoreau
I'm going to assume this is a Sondheim reference to make myself happy.
Unity in denial
Other times, it was funny.
I love that it's the same handwriting.
I don't even.
One thing's for certain: the combination of crumbling buildings, desert scenery and street art is utterly captivating.
Former campground building
Swimming pool art
Former campsite
Two Guns water tower
A-frame building
Perfect day for a dip
Two Massacres and a Tourist Trap
There's more to Two Guns than an abandoned gas station and campground.
In the late 1800s, some Apache massacred a Navajo encampment in the area, taking three surviving girls prisoner. The Navajo sent out a party to find the offending Apache and seek revenge.
They searched and searched in vain until a scout felt hot air and heard conversation rising from the ground. He had discovered a vent that led to a cave off the Canyon Diablo where the Apache were hiding.
Entrance to the cave
The Navajo killed the Apache scouts at the cave's mouth, and then trapped the remaining Apache with a fire.
Fire in the sky
The Navajo told the Apache they would have mercy on them if they released the three girls they had taken prisoner. But the Apache had already killed the girls, so the fire raged on.
Ruins in the front, old campground in the back
In the end, 42 Apache were asphyxiated in the cave under Two Guns — now called the Apache Death Cave.
In the 1920s, a man named Henry Miller bought the land. He figured its gruesome history and convenient location on Route 66 would make it a great tourist stop. Up went a gas station, restaurant, gas station and even a tiny zoo.
Still bears the name of the exhibit
He capitalized on the Apache Death Cave by giving tours, selling Apache skulls he found as souvenirs and building cliff dwelling ruins.
These structures were constructed to look like ruins, and now they're falling into further disrepair.
Stone watchtower with rickety steps
Once I-40 was built, the town was bypassed by most traffic, with nothing more to than a highway exit to suggest its existence. The Route 66 tourist town quickly fell into obscurity.
Broken glass from 1930s gas station
Today, it's nothing more than an eerie place to photograph and explore.
Climbing in the ruins
Best seen in the early morning and at sunset, make sure you leave before dark. The road is full of potholes, it's easy to get lost around the canyon, and some believe there's bad mojo in the air.
But if you do stick around for sunset, you'll be rewarded with this gorgeous view of snowy Humphreys Peak in nearby Flagstaff.
Flagstaff sunset
Have you visited any awesome ghost towns? Share in the comments.
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